A long time ago, I gave up on the dream of visiting the
fairy tale castles in the children’s books of my youth. Then, this summer,
I motored through the wrought iron gates and up the long, steep driveway to the
four-turreted façade of the five-star Chateau de la Messardiere in St.
Tropez.
One of only twelve ‘palace’ hotels in France, the serene,
oasis-like ambience of the Chateau de la Messardiere’s property is a stark
contrast to the crowds and champagne-soaked nightclubs of the bustling port of
St. Tropez (a five minute drive away via the hotel’s complimentary 24-hour
shuttle service).
Set on a hill and encompassing 25 acres (including a birdlife reserve), the native umbrella pines and mile-high cypress give way to the azure sea and undulating vineyards. You can see it all from expansive windows, doors, balconies, and terraces.
My own room, one of 118 on the property, was an enormous
suite decorated in Provençal style, with red terra cotta tiled floors, a canopy
bed, sitting area, two full bathrooms, and a private balcony so large I could
have held a cocktail party for 60 of my nearest and dearest.
The room rate was inclusive of a breakfast buffet to rival all
breakfast buffets (treats ranging from fresh baked croissants, jelly-filled
beignets, pastries, meats, cheeses, cereals, yogurts, crepes) and was held on
the hotel restaurant’s outdoor terrace, which boasts a panorama so arresting I
needed two hands to keep my coffee cup from trembling.
The hallmark of the hotel, should I be so bold as to name
just one, was the attentiveness and absolute competence of the staff. Perhaps
best summed up by my first morning at breakfast, when a waiter ran over and
swooped a small footstool under my handbag to save it from having to endure the
horror of resting on the ground beside my chair.
There is certainly no reason to ever leave the Chateau de la Messardiere. The property boasts a first-class spa, heated indoor pool and sauna, gym, outdoor pool, private beach with a beach restaurant, hairdresser, clothing shop, gourmet fine dining restaurant, poolside bar, British-style library bar, and rotating art exhibits and musical recitals. Should you want to venture off the property, however, the Golden Key winning concierge will attend to your every request.
My travel companion, a discerning and very critical
individual, who is no stranger to some of the best luxury properties in the
world, deemed the Chateau de la Messardiere, quite simply, “almost beyond
description.” And yet I try.